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Anatomy of a Light Bulb
Fluorescent Tubes
Example:
F40T12CWSSECO
F = Fluorescent
40 = Wattage
T = Tubular
12 = Size; 12/8” or 1½” Diameter
CW = Color: Cool White
SS = Super Saver in this case 34 watts
ECO = Ecologic or Environmentally Friendly
(low mercury)
Example:
CF23EL830/MED
CF = Compact Fluorescent
23 = Wattage
EL = Electronic Start
8 = CRI “Color Rendering Index”
30 = Color: Warm White
MED = Medium Screw Base “Standard Edison
Base”
 Incandescent
Bulbs
Example:
60A19FR – 130V
60 = Wattage: 60 Watts
A = Shape “A-Line”
19 = Size: 19/8” or 2 3/8” Diameter
FR = Frosted
130v = Voltage
Example:
300PS25MOG/CL – 130V
300 = Wattage: 300 Watts
PS = Shape “Pear Shape”
25 = Size: 25/8” or 3 1/8” Diameter
MOG = Base: Mogul
CL = Clear
130v = Voltage
 Decorative
Bulbs
Example:
25G25CL – 130V
25 = Wattage: 25 Watts
G = Shape “Globe”
25 = Size: 25/8” or 3 1/8” Diameter
130v = Voltage
 Example:
40CCF – 130v
40 = Wattage: 40Watts
C = Candelabra Base
C = Clear
130v = Voltage
F = Flame or Bent Tip
Why does 130-volt
matter?
In Tulsa, like most cities, voltage fluctuates between 117 – 124 volts
at the source (outlet). 130 volt commercial grade products have a
heavier duty filament designed to handle the surge from excess voltage
that comes from something as simple as turning on the light switch.
Ever notice that’s when most bulbs burn out? Lighting Inc. stocks only
130-volt products wherever they are available.
 HID
Lamps
Example:
MH400/C/U
MH = Metal Halide
400 = Wattage
C = Coated
U = Universal Burn i.e. Base Up, Base Down or Horizontal
 Example:
LU400/Eco
LU = High Pressure Sodium
250 = Wattage
CO = Ecologic or Environmentally Friendly (low mercury)
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